Trying to build the Tamiya/Italeri Panzerwerfer 42 OOB, although had to change visors (vision slits located too high) and change out the front (vinyl) wheels with a spare set from Hussar Production's set of Late Opel Blitz wheels (which contains two types of front wheels). Stuck in a driver (actually only the upper portion, as very little is visible. The link tracks were a pain to assemble and some links were only partially formed, but there were enough extra links.
Tuesday, November 07, 2017
Monday, October 02, 2017
Sd. Kfz. 11/4 Nebelkraftwagen Redux
Finally finished assembly and painting of the AFV Club Sd. Kfz. 11/14 Nebelkraftwagen using a replacement set of tracks from a DML Sd. Kfz. 251 (had to replace drive sprockets as well with DML drive sprockets). Needs weathering, to add driver and cargo. Would like to find a nebelwerfer to tow, but choices limited to the Lion Roar/Great Wall Hobby brass version. Maybe Italeri will reissue their older but cheaper NbW 41 one day?
Instrument panel decals from Archer Fine Transfers. License plates were taken from a Tamiya Sd. Kfz. 251 put on plastic card.
Instrument panel decals from Archer Fine Transfers. License plates were taken from a Tamiya Sd. Kfz. 251 put on plastic card.
Friday, June 09, 2017
Flakvierling 38 auf PzIV sfl (aka Mobelwagen prototype)
Sometimes weird ideas pop into mind. This project is intended to be a kit-bash of the old (alte?) Tamiya Mobelwagen with the 20mm Flakvierling 38. As it turns out, there apparently was a single prototype built in 1943. While the Mobelwagen concept was approved, for production the 37mm Flak 43 replaced the 20mm Flakvierling. There are a few pictures of the 20mm Flakvierling armed prototype - but none in combat. Some sources indicate that the prototype may have been re-armed with a 37mm FlaK and thus probably never saw combat - at least armed with the 20mm Flakvierling. The prototype will be referred to herein as a "Mobelwagen" even if, perhaps, that term was not used to refer to the prototype, because "20mm Flakvierling 38 auf Fahrgestell Panzerkampfwagen IV Selbstfahrlafette" is just too long.
Tamiya has an old kit of the 20mm Flakvierling prototype as well as a newer version of the production 37 FlaK 43 Mobelwagen. The older version is based on Tamiya's old PzIV hull from the 1970s which has various issues. The new version uses the updated PzIV hull.
So, the idea is to mate the Tamiya kit with a (somewhat) updated Dragon PzIV hull - specifically, the hull from a spare Cyber-Hobby "Orange Box" Brummbar late kit, which was selected as the donor because of its low cost (and, with a new Tamiya kit coming, a low likelihood of being built as such).
The two hulls are shown below:
Because the fenders in the middle of the Mobelwagen hull lack the tread plate, the fenders need to be retained. After the initial surgery:
First roadblock - a problem that should have been evident before but is obvious from the overlay is that the Mobelwagen fenders are wider than the DML fenders. The option of cutting off and relocating inwards the Mobelwagen fenders, while probably the most correct solution, seems to pose significant execution risks of creating gaps, etc., and because there are various attachment points, etc., located on the fender. Trimming the Mobelwagen fenders is likely problematic because of the rivets located at the edge. A third option might be to widen/extend the DML fenders - maybe by adding a strip along the outer edge. This might be the easiest to execute, although technically probably the least correct.
Okay, decided to go with option 1. Ended up having to fill quite a number of gaps as well.
After replacing dampers with Tristar early dampers and adding sides:
A little bit of primer just to get a little more unified feel to the build
As can be seen from the above picture, the shields on the AFV Club Flakvierling 38 are much wider than the Tamiya shields and extend well beyond the side walls of the Mobelwagen so the option of using these shields with only minor modifications won't work. Additionally, the Tamiya Mobelwagen shields will not easily fit perpendicularly with the AFV Club base, so using the AFV Club Flakvierling may be out as an option.
Tamiya has an old kit of the 20mm Flakvierling prototype as well as a newer version of the production 37 FlaK 43 Mobelwagen. The older version is based on Tamiya's old PzIV hull from the 1970s which has various issues. The new version uses the updated PzIV hull.
So, the idea is to mate the Tamiya kit with a (somewhat) updated Dragon PzIV hull - specifically, the hull from a spare Cyber-Hobby "Orange Box" Brummbar late kit, which was selected as the donor because of its low cost (and, with a new Tamiya kit coming, a low likelihood of being built as such).
The two hulls are shown below:
Because the fenders in the middle of the Mobelwagen hull lack the tread plate, the fenders need to be retained. After the initial surgery:
First roadblock - a problem that should have been evident before but is obvious from the overlay is that the Mobelwagen fenders are wider than the DML fenders. The option of cutting off and relocating inwards the Mobelwagen fenders, while probably the most correct solution, seems to pose significant execution risks of creating gaps, etc., and because there are various attachment points, etc., located on the fender. Trimming the Mobelwagen fenders is likely problematic because of the rivets located at the edge. A third option might be to widen/extend the DML fenders - maybe by adding a strip along the outer edge. This might be the easiest to execute, although technically probably the least correct.
Okay, decided to go with option 1. Ended up having to fill quite a number of gaps as well.
After replacing dampers with Tristar early dampers and adding sides:
The Tamiya kit FlakVierling partially fitted on a preliminary basis. Will need replace gun sight and barrels - not sure whether to replace in entirety.
At left is a partially assembled Flakvierling 38 from the DML Wirbelwind kit (originally from the Sd.Kfz. 7/1) (note round base), while the partially assembled Tamiya Flakvierling 38 is at right.
As can be seen from the above picture, the shields on the AFV Club Flakvierling 38 are much wider than the Tamiya shields and extend well beyond the side walls of the Mobelwagen so the option of using these shields with only minor modifications won't work. Additionally, the Tamiya Mobelwagen shields will not easily fit perpendicularly with the AFV Club base, so using the AFV Club Flakvierling may be out as an option.
Finally getting to the final configuration. The kit flakvierling is used with some minor detailing. Still need to find a replacement gun sight, but that can be added later. Now it mainly a matter of painting. Road wheels and tracks (from Tristar) have been painted and are ready for adding. We'll see if the Tristar tracks hold together without glue.
Sunday, May 21, 2017
120mm Granatwerfer 42 kitbash
A mash-up of the Zvezda and DML 120mm GrW. 42. From what I can tell, the Zvezda is actually the Soviet 120mm m.1938 (of which many were captured and used by the Germans). One obvious difference is the sight. Also, horizontal adjustment mechanism is a knob on the GrW. 42, but a crank on the m. 1938. Both the Zevezda and DML have a crank. A good reference is a US army film demonstration of the deployment of a capture GrW 42 - easily found online.
The trailer also is the Soviet version. Have tried to modify the trailer slightly, esp. at towing hook which consists of spare parts from the Tristar 20mm FlaK 38 (although it should be bent). The lower vertical cross bar probably should be deleted. Based on reference photos, the cart wheels also should be replaced w/something like Opel Blitz/Steyr 1500 wheels. The (temporary) wheels shown are Hussar Productions flak trailer wheels. To fit the DML mortar base plate, the portion of the trailer where the base plate hooks on had to be thinned. Also, the Soviet trailer supports appear to have been more angular than the German trailer and so there was some slight rounding.
The towed mortar is the Zvezda tube and folded legs, with everything else from the DML, plus the horizontal adjustment crank replaced by a knob (from a spare rear mg mount from a DML 250 or 251) and a cross bar with a holding pin (part of the aforementioned spare rear mg mount). The deployed mortar (Soviet) is the DML tube and legs (and replacing the Zvezda vertical crank with the now-redundant horizontal crank from the DML kit), with everything else from Zvezda.
The trailer also is the Soviet version. Have tried to modify the trailer slightly, esp. at towing hook which consists of spare parts from the Tristar 20mm FlaK 38 (although it should be bent). The lower vertical cross bar probably should be deleted. Based on reference photos, the cart wheels also should be replaced w/something like Opel Blitz/Steyr 1500 wheels. The (temporary) wheels shown are Hussar Productions flak trailer wheels. To fit the DML mortar base plate, the portion of the trailer where the base plate hooks on had to be thinned. Also, the Soviet trailer supports appear to have been more angular than the German trailer and so there was some slight rounding.
The towed mortar is the Zvezda tube and folded legs, with everything else from the DML, plus the horizontal adjustment crank replaced by a knob (from a spare rear mg mount from a DML 250 or 251) and a cross bar with a holding pin (part of the aforementioned spare rear mg mount). The deployed mortar (Soviet) is the DML tube and legs (and replacing the Zvezda vertical crank with the now-redundant horizontal crank from the DML kit), with everything else from Zvezda.
Friday, March 10, 2017
AFV Club SdKfz 11/4 WIP
The AFV Club SdKfz 11/4 has been under construction for a long time now. Completion has been stymied by (i) some gaps between the door/side panels and the hood and cab; (ii) the ugly folded tilt which needs some sort of covering, etc. Bought the AFV Club SdKfz 11/251 individual track links to replace the kit tracks but installing the track links under the fender proved infeasible. Next alternative was the kit tracks, which actually aren't bad and are a lot easier to use than the AFV Club indie track links. Used clear fishing line to tie them down for a "sag" effect. However, decided to use an "extra" set of DML EZ Tracks for the Sd.Kfz. 251 as described below.
Top - WIP AFV Club SdKfz 11/4 with ICM Pak 36(r); bottom - WIP 11/4 with Dragon Sd.Kfz. 251 individual link tracks.
After three years hiatus, will try to finish off this kit. Three roadblocks so far:
1. The doors of the cab do not fit squarely with the hood. Not sure what the issue is - the assembly seems to have followed the instructions. Finally decided to cut off the locating pins on the underside of the engine hood and fill the gaps in the chassis, insert some shims and putty in the remaining gaps between the doors and hood (and also between the doors and bottom of cab. Not pretty, but not sure what else to do. See bottom picture (above).
2. Replacing rubber band tracks with so-called EZ Tracks from DML Sd.Kfz.251. These are the pressed type, but not necessarily EZ to assemble. The skeletal tracks in the DML kit, although requiring removal from the sprues were much easier to assemble and remained flexible. The EZ tracks seem to have shallower attachment pins/points, which made assembly more difficult and meant that they don't stay flexible. Also ended up having to cut-off and remove the well-glued AFV drive sprocket because it was misaligned with the road wheels. I think the issue is the drive sprocket is too thick. Replaced with a DML drive sprocket from an Sd.Kfz. 251 after making a replacement "axle" from sprue. I like the look of the DML tracks better than the AFV Club individual track links for SdKfz 11/251, whose track pads seems skinny in comparison to the DML tracks. See bottom picture (above).
3. The tilt looks flat and not particularly realistic - not sure how to handle yet - most other pics of this build show it covered up in whole or in part to various degrees.
Top - WIP AFV Club SdKfz 11/4 with ICM Pak 36(r); bottom - WIP 11/4 with Dragon Sd.Kfz. 251 individual link tracks.
After three years hiatus, will try to finish off this kit. Three roadblocks so far:
1. The doors of the cab do not fit squarely with the hood. Not sure what the issue is - the assembly seems to have followed the instructions. Finally decided to cut off the locating pins on the underside of the engine hood and fill the gaps in the chassis, insert some shims and putty in the remaining gaps between the doors and hood (and also between the doors and bottom of cab. Not pretty, but not sure what else to do. See bottom picture (above).
2. Replacing rubber band tracks with so-called EZ Tracks from DML Sd.Kfz.251. These are the pressed type, but not necessarily EZ to assemble. The skeletal tracks in the DML kit, although requiring removal from the sprues were much easier to assemble and remained flexible. The EZ tracks seem to have shallower attachment pins/points, which made assembly more difficult and meant that they don't stay flexible. Also ended up having to cut-off and remove the well-glued AFV drive sprocket because it was misaligned with the road wheels. I think the issue is the drive sprocket is too thick. Replaced with a DML drive sprocket from an Sd.Kfz. 251 after making a replacement "axle" from sprue. I like the look of the DML tracks better than the AFV Club individual track links for SdKfz 11/251, whose track pads seems skinny in comparison to the DML tracks. See bottom picture (above).
3. The tilt looks flat and not particularly realistic - not sure how to handle yet - most other pics of this build show it covered up in whole or in part to various degrees.
Friday, February 17, 2017
DML Sturmpanzer IV mid mit zimmerit
After a long hiatus, some progress on the Dragon Sturmpanzer IV "Brummbar" middle version mit zimmerit. Substituted some extra "magic" link to link tracks for the DS runs. As others have noted, the gun assembly sits too high and prevents the casemate from sitting flush on the lower hull so the bottom part of the gun base had to be shaved down fairly substantially. The driver's box still seems to be a little high, so may need to remove locating pins so it is flush with lower hull. Small gap at front of lower hull needs a little filling but otherwise generally very good fit (except for gun as noted above). Intend to finish as vehicle of Sturmpanzer Abt. 217 which fought in France in late summer 1944. Pictures indicate a spare track rack was added to each side of the superstructure. The camo scheme is a little unclear from the couple of pics of (destroyed) vehicles from this unit.
A couple of WIP pictures:
A couple of WIP pictures:
Thursday, February 09, 2017
Krupp protze mit Flak 30 - WIP
The old Tamiya Krupp Protze kit being converted to a carrier for the 20mm Flak. Initial intent was to mount a Flak 38, although, based on pictures (and early war time frame of introduction), the 20mm Flak 30 probably was more commonly used than the Flak 38. However, there is photo of a late war Krupp Protze with a drilling mount and at least one photo of a Krupp Protze with a Flak 38, so it would not completely be a "paper" project. Temporarily used the Tamiya Flak 38 for fitting purposes, but plan was to replace with the Tristar Flak 38 late. Have the original Tristar boxing but recently was reissued by Hobby Boss. Based on initial build, seems to be a nice kit but heavy sprue gates and there was one point on the trailer in which the mold seems not to have filled in. Drilled out the holes on the flash suppressor. Wanted to use the Tristar kit because it comes with a nice ammo trailer (although query whether the Krupp Protze would have had sufficient power to both portage the flak gun and tow a fully loaded ammo trailer). The base for the Flak mounting is built from tongue depressors.
Roadblocks: Every kit, it seems, has some "roadblocks" - stumbling points that can impede an otherwise smooth build. Some kits have more than others.
For the Tristar Flak 38 late, the top three (3) roadblocks, so far:
1. If installing the gun shields, hold off on installing the top shield supports until installing the shields. The instructions have you install them early. If you're lucky, they will align with the shield. If you're not, like me, you will have a problem. Because the supports are solidly glued to the frame, will have to cut them from their base, do a little surgery, and try to fit properly.
2. The gun sight link is attached w/o glue to a PE part then trapped in the gun so it can freely rotate. Seems like a nice idea but the attachment pin is very shallow. Against my better judgment, I tried this and, sure enough, the link came loose from the now-inaccessible PE part. So will have to try to glue in the approximately correct location. Best solution would be some sort of nut on the other side of the attachment point, but probably too shallow. Maybe just attach with white glue (?) before trapping. Good idea, perhaps, but falls down in execution.
3. This roadblock is specific to intended use as a portee on the krupp protze - while the Tamiya Flak 38 fits (barely), the Tristar Flak 38 does not. The Tristar gun base (or the supporting feet) is slightly wider than the Tamiya gun base - not by a lot, but by enough to prevent it from fitting straight into the back of the krupp protze. This roadblock could be fatal - at least to the intended use.
Some other notes - should insert the other half of the towing pin when attaching the ammo box to the sd ah 51 frame - easier to do before, but still possible afterwards. Also, for those allergic to PE, there are a number of very tiny PE parts that have to be no added.
Given roadblock #3 above, have decided to use the Flak 30 from the DML Sd.Kfz. 10/4 (1940) version. An initial build of the base shows that the Flak 30 base is much smaller than the Flak 38 base and so will easily fit. The 1940 version of the DML Sd.Kfz. 10/4 does not include a gun shield, only the 1939 version. A test fit of the Tristar Flak 38 base shows that it will fit on the Sd.Kfz. 10/4 supports for the Flak 30 so hopefully can use the Flak 38 on the Sd.Kfz. 10/4, though also will have to check the clearance with the side screens. Apparently, later versions of the Sd.Kfz. 10/4 were fitted with Flak 38s, so this hopefully is still reasonably historical.
Roadblocks: Every kit, it seems, has some "roadblocks" - stumbling points that can impede an otherwise smooth build. Some kits have more than others.
For the Tristar Flak 38 late, the top three (3) roadblocks, so far:
1. If installing the gun shields, hold off on installing the top shield supports until installing the shields. The instructions have you install them early. If you're lucky, they will align with the shield. If you're not, like me, you will have a problem. Because the supports are solidly glued to the frame, will have to cut them from their base, do a little surgery, and try to fit properly.
2. The gun sight link is attached w/o glue to a PE part then trapped in the gun so it can freely rotate. Seems like a nice idea but the attachment pin is very shallow. Against my better judgment, I tried this and, sure enough, the link came loose from the now-inaccessible PE part. So will have to try to glue in the approximately correct location. Best solution would be some sort of nut on the other side of the attachment point, but probably too shallow. Maybe just attach with white glue (?) before trapping. Good idea, perhaps, but falls down in execution.
3. This roadblock is specific to intended use as a portee on the krupp protze - while the Tamiya Flak 38 fits (barely), the Tristar Flak 38 does not. The Tristar gun base (or the supporting feet) is slightly wider than the Tamiya gun base - not by a lot, but by enough to prevent it from fitting straight into the back of the krupp protze. This roadblock could be fatal - at least to the intended use.
Some other notes - should insert the other half of the towing pin when attaching the ammo box to the sd ah 51 frame - easier to do before, but still possible afterwards. Also, for those allergic to PE, there are a number of very tiny PE parts that have to be no added.
Given roadblock #3 above, have decided to use the Flak 30 from the DML Sd.Kfz. 10/4 (1940) version. An initial build of the base shows that the Flak 30 base is much smaller than the Flak 38 base and so will easily fit. The 1940 version of the DML Sd.Kfz. 10/4 does not include a gun shield, only the 1939 version. A test fit of the Tristar Flak 38 base shows that it will fit on the Sd.Kfz. 10/4 supports for the Flak 30 so hopefully can use the Flak 38 on the Sd.Kfz. 10/4, though also will have to check the clearance with the side screens. Apparently, later versions of the Sd.Kfz. 10/4 were fitted with Flak 38s, so this hopefully is still reasonably historical.
Wednesday, February 08, 2017
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