Two antagonists from the Russian Front - mid to late 1943 - Panther Ausf. D (slight conversion) and T-34 Mod. 1943 with
UZTM turret and commander’s cupola (anachronistically referred to as “formochka”).
The size difference of the WIP afvs (both sans tracks) is shown above.
Panther Ausf. D (pre-June 1943 production)
On the heels of the Jagdpanther, this is the Pz.Beob.Wg. V
Ausf. D Early from Dragon. As it turns out, the depicted vehicle never made it
past the wooden mock-up stage, so decided to build as a regular Panther Ausf.
D. As far as I can tell from comparing
part sprues, this kit contains all of the parts from Dragon’s Panther Ausf. D
“Kursk,” except for the turret. However,
the difference in turrets appears to be certain locating holes, which can be
filled as necessary.
After the Jagdpanther, would like to try to make this as OOB
and simply as possible. However, have
made or plan to make a few minimal changes as follows:
1. Engine decks
grills: (a) add P/E covers (Tamiya
Panther Ausf. D add-ons); and (b) block the underside of the grills with
plastic card and re-purposed Pz. IV fans from spare parts box.
2. Exhaust –
small cross bar in tube appears to be missing – a simple addition.
3. Tracks – the kit unexpectedly comes with
three sets of tracks: (a) The “original”
indy links on sprues without holes in the guide teeth; (b) set of DS tracks
with holes in guide teeth; and (c) unadvertised set of Magic Tracks with holes
in the guide teeth. In addition, have
another set of DS tracks from the Jagdpanther and a set of workable Tamiya
Panther Ausf. D tracks (same as used for Jagdpanther build). The original on-sprue indy links are a
non-starter because of the lack of holes.
Have not has great experiences with DS tracks. Tried them twice – (i)
DML Elephant, which broke; and (ii) Pz. III/IV tracks for Jagdpanzer IV(A),
lacking sag. Would be inclined to use
the Magic Tracks or Tamiya workable tracks, except that side skirts may cover
up lack of sag in which case DS might look okay and the indy links can be saved
for another day where the sag is visible.
4. Gun Barrel –
according to some reviews, the kit 75mm gun barrel is 1mm too short. It also is two-pieces, with resultant joint
seam. Have Tamiya metal barrel for
Panther Ausf. D; may use here.
5. Co-ax MG –
as necessary, add (internal) barrel for co-ax MG.
6. Missing top
portion of gun mantlet/turret added; need to add small box (or boxes
structure).
7. Driver’s
glass vision block added to open visor.
8. Added second driving headlight
(fortunately kit comes with two).
9. Consider replacing chain on gun travel
lock.
The initial build did not start well as the driver-side
torsion bars were installed in the wrong directors. The photo-based instructions in this regards
are much worse than the Jagdpanther’s drawing-based instructions, but this is
still (largely) a self-inflicted wound.
Of course, by the time the mistake was realized the glue had set so 4 or
5 bars had to be sheared off, meaning they will be weak and increasing the
change of not being level (already a problem even without this).
Note also that if the instructions sequence of adding the
underside of the hull sponson before affixing the upper hull to the lower hull
is followed, the underside pieces will have to fit under guide brackets on the
lower hull, which will necessitate sliding the upper hull – except that the
towing eyelets will prevent the hull front from fitting easily. Ended up adding the undersides of the
sponsons after the upper and rear hulls are fixed to the lower hull.
Inserted figure stands for driver and commander; in both cases
from the Tamiya Wehrmacht Tank Crew Set.
T-34 Mod. 1943 with UZTM stamped turret and commander’s cupola.
Kit generally is going together well, except for the PE
engine louvers. It seemed simple enough
but turned out to be a bit messy. There
was a small gap at the join between the front and lower hull that needed
filling. Installed a figure stand in the
turret for a Russian Tank Crew Commander from Tamiya. Also, the cast road wheels should be aligned
with the rubber road wheels and idler/drive wheels, as the cast road wheels can
be inserted closer to the hull, which would create a misalignment.
